Annapurna Base Camp: A trek to cognizance



Last year, I vented my anger on facebook on how Dashain has been a total nuisance rather than an amusing festival. I reasoned how the time of Dashain could be more fruitful/fun if one opted to NOT celebrate the ‘monotonous’ Dashain and decide to visit our own beautiful Nepal in that period instead. This year, I decided to tail what I presented last year. I packed my bags and went for the Glory. Luckily, my parents did not coerce me to stay at home despite having just three members in the family. My exclusion in Dashain meant that Dad and mom had to sojourn at home in festive period without me. As a son, if I pictured the scenario from my parents’ stance I would definitely rate this Dashain as one of the bitterest Dashains. Dashain usually means family members being together, sharing-laughs, stories and precious moments. For my parents, it was complete contrast as their eldest son and his family were close only on skype and the other son was on his way to the mountains. He was definitely close yet so far. Thus, before leaving, I could picture how miserable my parents’ Dashain was going to be. 


Despite all those, I managed to place my feet outside the emotional zone. Four people including myself set out our journey to Annapurna Base Camp. Day 1 was from Kathmandu to Pokhara. We caught the bus from Kalanki (at 2:30 PM) and reached Pokhara around 9 PM. Day 2 started early (2 AM) from Pokhara. We caught the night bus to Nayapul. And started our genuine trek from there. It was Saturday morning and we walked 9-12 hours per day to reach ABC within Tuesday. Nayapul – Birethanti-Ulleri-Ghorepani in Day 2. Ghorepani-Poonhill-Ghorepani-Tadapani-Gurjhung-Chhomrong in Day 3. Chhomrong-Sinuwa-Bamboo-Dovan-Himalaya-Deurali in Day 4. Deurali-MBC-ABC- back to MBC- Deurali- Himalaya- Dovan- Bamboo in Day 5. Bamboo-Sinuwa-Chhomrong-Jhinu-New Bridge- Siwai in Day 6. Siwai – Syauli Bazar – Birethanti – Naya Pul – Pokhara- Kathmandu  in Day 7.


Reaching Annapurna Base Camp was not a walk in the park especially when you are among those who do not exercise in your daily life. Stairs from the bottom of the hill to the top was not a motivation either. Trek from Birethanti to Ulleri to Ghorepani was particularly challenging and eye opener about what our journey ahead consisted of. Stairs, Stairs, Stairs, more stairs and even more stairs. I have to say that the second day was hardly any fun. It was glum as I only loved walking in plain areas and downhill. But the uphill climbing via the stairs was what I despised most. And second day till we reached Ghorepani, it was all uphill climbing leaving some areas where it was fairly easy walk.

On the way to Ghorepani, we had glimpses of Machchhapuchhre Mountain. That majestic view and the delightful meal at Ulleri spurred our walk. It was from the third day that I started linking the trek with life. Everything in life and in trekking seemed to have carried the same message. Each step I took, I figured out more about life. It was like a meditation. The more my feelings went deep, the more I got ‘enlightened’. By enlightenment, I meant I became more aware to the things around me. The ‘good /wise’ person in me took over and I started visualizing life from a broader term. Trekking was getting the best out of me.

When I was at the foot of the hill, I saw the never ending uphill stairs welcoming me. My first and second days’ approach was all wrong. I always looked at the top and got demotivated (imagining the difficult climb ahead). Consequently, my body used to give up and no matter how long or short (easy or hard) path came my way, I got fatigued frequently and needed more rest or breaks. But that changed from the third day as I altered my approach. After that, I did not see the goal at the top of the mountain. I set small goals first. My goal was to climb the next stair I encounter. The destination was far away but my goals were always near. I did not have to hustle or be worried about my goal. All I did was welcome the next stair and complete my challenge. Aren’t the life goals be achieved that way? One step at a time? That way, I was always steady and I did not fear my goal. I kept on moving towards my destination with ease as my next goal needed exactly the same amount of effort that I put in achieving the previous one (which was not much). I have ambitions with life. Gigantic ones and they have often made me unnerved. I have always feared my goals with life. But now I know how I have to move towards them. I should stop lurching towards them. My steps should be placid and well weighed.

My own (new) approach to the destination/goals was a great motivation. But the motivation was at rife while trekking. Children below 10, elders above 65 were seen scaling their way to ABC. Not only that, porters with big loads were climbing uphill. Locals or not, habit or not, it’s never easy to carry heavy load and climb the hill. You see them and question yourself about the excuse you are making of being tired. The cool zephyr, clear weather, blue rivers with a magical sound directly from Himalayas, the beautiful scenes, exquisite smile of the snow-covered mountains, songs of birds and animals, the ‘homelike’ jungles and so many other things were inarguably the best of the motivations. But what trekking did to me was it helped me notice the simplest of things that went unnoticed in my daily life before.

The other thing that the trek taught me is to spread love even to the ones that you do not know. Thousands of tourists from all around the world trekked at the same time. Around 90% tourists greeted us with a smile and a ‘Namaste’. No matter how tired they were, no matter what, they always had something to say to us. If not, they offered a smile. While walking if they heard your shriek of pain, they would stop and ask if you were alright. People from different countries with different languages speaking one common language ‘love’, how beautiful is that? What difference did it make then? It made a huge difference. For the split seconds, you forget how bushed you are. ‘You smile at the world and the world will smile with you.’ Now imagine meeting one tourist every 3 seconds. In one minute, I smiled for 20 seconds. Meaning, the travelling was more pleasing. It’s not just about tourists. The locals treated us the same. They were ecstatic to see the local tourists and treated us very well everywhere. Considerable discounts were provided on the hotels and lodges. They conversed with us about our hometowns, our jobs, and studies and even shared a view about politics. Moreover, we shared love. Isn’t our lives lacking love? Are we loving enough? Haven’t we become too self-centered to even wave at our neighbour or smile at them? Aren’t we lacking the essence of life? How can we reap happiness when we sow revulsion in our heart? “Let us make one point, that we meet each other with a smile, when it is difficult to smile.” – Mother Teresa.

As I was edging close to the ABC, I went through the tremendous emotional turbulence. I was euphoric as well as hollow within. Some astounding feelings overwhelmed my heart and mind. I could hardly prognosticate the situation I was going through. I was dumbfounded. As I reached ABC, I figured out what was wrong with me. I wanted to stay there forever and at the same time, I wanted to come back home to my loved ones. I remembered my family: parents and siblings, I missed my beloved one and my buddies. I evoked all the sweets moments with them. Their laughs, smile and their certain reaction to magnificence. I recalled how they would react after they saw what was just inches in front of me (the Annapurna). How I wished they were there with me. I have been recluse most of my life. I love solitary. I avoid crowds. Even at my own home, I am always found inside my room alone. Thus, I was astonished (despite my nature) to fathom that I wanted to be with my loved ones to share my exhilaration. Mayhap, I comprehended the true meaning of happiness then. I thought of the quote from the book ‘Into the Wild’ by Christopher McCandless and smiled big. “Happiness only real when shared.” My travelling companions with me in the ABC discerned my smile. Little did they know the genuine reason behind it.

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

निस्पट्टता

२०६९-०३-०५
(मेरो डायरीबाट)

निस्पट्टता: मानिसहरु यो शब्दलाई कति नकारात्मक रुपमा लिन्छन् | आफुले भोगे पनि नभोगे पनि, यो शब्द उनीहरुको लागी भयानक छ | निस्पट्टता माने अन्धकार, जहाँ कुनै प्रकाश छैन | र भय त्यसै बखत उत्पन्न हुन्छ जब मानिस केहि देख्दैन | केहि कुरा देखे पछी मात्र ऊ ढुक्क हुन्छ नत्र विवेकसून्य भएर ऊ त्रसित हुने क्रम जारी रहन्छ | सधैं हिड्ने बाटो पनि अन्धकारमय हुँदा ढुक्क संग हिंड्न सकिंदैन | बिस्तारै बडो होसियार भइ कदम चाल्नु पर्ने हुन्छ | एक किसिमको त्रास मनमा रही रहन्छ | कतै ठेस लाग्ने पो हो कि?

तर मलाई निस्पट्टतासंग अगाध प्रेम छ | कतिपय कुराहरु म अँध्यारोमै पाउँछु | निस्पट्टतामा कता-कता म रम्दछु | भानिन्छ सबै रंगहरुको मिश्रण पछी नै कालो रंगको सृजना हुन्छ | त्यसैले होला म पनि अन्धकारमा थुप्रै कुराहरु डुबुल्की मार्दै गरेको पाउँछु | निस्पट्टताले मलाई आकर्षित गर्छ | टोलाएर जब म अन्धकारमा भावसून्य हुन्छु, तब मलाई अनन्त पुकार सुनाइदिन्छन् | आफ्नो अंगालोमा मलाई गुटुमुटु पार्न हरदम तयार यो अन्धकार, मलाई कत्ति पनि भयानक लाग्दैन |  थुनिएको, बन्धक बनाईएको मान्छेहरुलाई अन्धकार देखि घृणा हुन सक्ला | तर म त खुला पन्छी जस्तै हुँ | मलाई मन लागेको रोज्न अधिकार छ र निस्पट्टता रोज्न म कत्ति पनि हिचकिचाउदिन | कालो निशामामै ताराहरु मिलिक-मिलिक गर्छन्, चन्द्रमा स्वादसँग हाँस्छिन् | यदि अन्धकार भयानक हुने भए, यी ताराहरु अनि चन्द्रमा रमाउदै नाँच्ने अनि धपक्क बल्ने काम गर्थे होलान् र? अरुलाई अत्याश लाग्ने रजनी किन यिनीहरुलाई प्यारो छ? ती ताराहरु हेर्दा लाग्छ, मानौं कसैले गगनमा झिलिमिली गर्ने अन्नको बिस्कुन सुकाएको छ | ती ताराहरुलाई हेरी-रहंदा, एक प्रकारको शान्ति महसुस हुन्छ रातको निस्पट्टतामा |

डर हाम्रो मानिसकतामा गाढिएको छ | निस्पट्टता आफैंमा नकारात्मक होइन | यो त कसले कसरी परिभाषित गर्छ भन्ने मात्र न हो | निस्पट्टताको परिभाषा मेरो शब्दकोशमा बेग्लै छ | सायद म अपवाद परें कि?

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

मनको डढेलो

आफु भित्रको ज्वाला

बन्द गर्ने कसरी? 
यो तडप्, यो जलन 
निको हुन्छ कसरी? 
आँसुले निभाऊँ भन्दा, 
झन्-झन् पोल्छ बेस्सरी
लागेको डढेलो यो मनमा, 
अब निभ्छ कसो गरि? 
Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

Some candles that you don’t want to burn

 What if someone gifts you candles? One might argue that gifts are not meant to be burned. Fair enough. But what if your country has abundant power cut that you are compelled to light those candles in case of an emergency? To relish gifts, may well depend upon the person who gifted it. If one likes the person that gifted the presents then there is a fair chance of gifts being cherished and saved for future no matter what.
Today, as I was going through my old stuffs, I found this wonderful gift which was almost forgotten by me. Some two and a half years ago, I got a surprise gift from one of the people whom I admire the most. Yes, I got candles. Artistic, handmade beautiful candles of different shapes and sizes. There were three of them and each was equally lovely.
The candles came in a box labelled as ‘To my dearest brother’ and there was also a letter in it. Before I could open it, there was another message in the box – ‘Smile before you open the letter’. That message never gets old. Every time, every single time, I have automatically smiled before opening it and so I will. Moreover, the letter inside is also one of the sweetest ones I have ever received.

In the letter, there is a request to not burn the candles in the loadshedding tormented hours. Clearly that’s more a humour than the request. Because I needed no such appeal for that. Those candles when lit may illuminate the dark hours due to loadshedding for a moment or two but when left as they are, will illuminate my many more dark hours of the life in the future. The much needed affection, smile and warmth will be served every time I behold these candles. It’s hard to believe that the unlit candles possess more power than the lit ones to lighten someone’s life.  
 
What does a man need? He simply needs love and a simple reminder that somewhere someone is putting all their efforts to make him happy. These candles and letter are just that. They are a reminder to me that no matter how life turns to be, no matter how fast I run, I will always be loved and I will always find someone waiting for me to share the moments. Whenever I pause in this fast paced life, looking for an inspiration, looking for that extra support or the much needed love and assurance, I will always find these unburnt candles to light up my life.

Here’s to my dear sister whose candles will always light up my world without being burned. Cheers!

Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

के रमाइलो छ र दशैं??

के रमाइलो छ र दशैं? काठमाडौँमै जन्म भयो, यहीं हुर्किएँ | न त अरुझैं गाउँ जाने भनेर रमाउन सकिन्छ | केटा-केटी रहिएन, नयाँ लुगाको आशमा दशैं कुरिन्न, चाहिएको बेला किनिएकै छ | ‘चिची’ खान पनि दशैं कुर्न पर्दैन; अझ आफुँ त शाकाहारी, त्यो प्रलोवनमा पर्ने कुरै भएन | बच्चा जस्तो चंगा उडाउने, लंगुर्बुर्जा खेल्ने चलन अहिले त्यति छैन | अहिलेका बच्चा, कम्प्युटर र फोनमै ब्यस्त | तास खेल्न नि दशैं तिहार कुर्न परेन | मान्छे भेला भयो कि तास खेलेर ‘टाइम पास’ गरिन्छ |
अहिलेका जस्तो बस्ति कहाँ थियो र ऊ बेला, खुल्ला ठाउँमा लिंगे पिंग हाल्थे, अहिले त पिंग कहाँ हाल्या छन् भन्दा पनि, खुल्ला ठाउँ कहाँ छ खोज्नु पर्ने | टीकाको दिन, टन्न दक्षिणा कमाइने प्रलोभनमा भए पनि मामाघर कहिले पुगौं जस्तो हुन्थ्यो | अहिले त्यो हर्ष पनि रहेन | फेरी अचेल त टीका थापेर ठूला-बडाको आशिर्वाद भन्दा पनि बढी ‘व्यङ्ग्य’ पाईन्छ | मोटो मानिस हो भने, ‘ल चाडैं जिउ घटोस्’ भन्ने आशिष, आशिष नभई व्यंग्य हो | त्यस्तै पातलो मानिस छ भने त्यै किसिमको आशिष आउँछ | कपाल/दारी लामो भए त्यसमा व्यंग्य, कपाल झरेको भए त्यसमा व्यंग्य, काले भएको छ भने त्यसमा व्यंग्य, जता त्यतै व्यंग्य |
पढाई, जागिर, तलब, पेशा, आदि सबको एकैचोटी बेलिबिस्तार लाउदै हिड्नु पर्ने जता-ततै | चाडवाडको बेला वर्ष भरीको दुख भुलेर रम्न खोज्ने हो भने दशैं त्यो चाड होइन | पढाई, जागिर, तलब, पेशा, आदिको मार-को घाउँ फेरी आलो भइदिन्छ | त्यसैले टीका लगाउनु अगाडी, को मान्छेलाई के उत्तर दिने भनेर पूर्व तयारी आवश्यक भइसक्यो | आशिर्वाद होइन, आलोचना खेप्न गएको जस्तो भान हुने |
२४-२५ वर्षको होऊ, बिहेको कुराले जबरजस्ती पेल्ने | रमाइलो एक ठाउँमा छ, तर १-२ पटकको जोकले हसाउन सक्छ, तर त्यो अत्ति भए मगजलाई भारी पर्छ | विवाह आफुँ तयार भए पछी गर्ने हो, अरु तयार भएपछी होइन | जिवन जिउने आफुले हो, अरुले त पासो बाँधी दिएर सित्तैको भोज खाएर हिड्छन् | ‘लौ भोग दुख एक्लै’ भनेझैं गरी | आफुँ तयार भएर गरेको विहेको बन्धनलाई ‘लगन-गाँठो’ भनिन्छ, तयार नभई गरेको लाई ‘गल-पासो’ | यदि रमाइलोको लागि विवाह प्रसङ्ग झिक्या हो भने माफ गर्नु होला, बिहेको जोक पाच्य छैन |
धेरै बुढा भएका हजुरआमा-हजुरबुवाहरु बाट राम्रा आशिक अझै आउन छोडेको छैन | ‘बाबु-नानि तिमी जे गर्दै छौ, अझ उन्नति होस् प्रगति होस्, धेरै असल मान्छे बनेस्’ भन्ने जस्ता आशिषले अझै मन जित्छन् | ‘राम्रो जोइ/पोइ, गर्लफ्रेन/ब्वाईफ्रेन पाएस, यति कमाएस्, उति कमाएस्’ भनेर दिइने अहिलेको आधुनिक आशिष ‘रमाइलोको लागि’ दिइए पनि त्यस्तो आशिष लिन गएको भने होइन | आशिषमा वजन होस् अनि पो निधार निहुराउदै जान फेरी प्रेरणा मिल्छ | ठूला-प्रति केही आदर मान सम्मान भएर नै आशिष थाप्न गएका हौं | रमाइलोको नाममा ‘टीका’ जस्तो दिनको महत्व नघटोस् |
दशैंमा मौसम रमाइलो हुन्छ, बच्चा बेला जस्तो रमाइलो नहुने अनि आशिष पनि ‘वाइयात’ आउने क्रम बढ्न थाल्यो भने, अर्को पालि देखि हाम्रो मनोरम देश १५ दिन जति लाई बिन्दास घुम्न जाँदा धेरै फाईदा देख्छु म | दशैंको खर्चले मस्त घुम्न पुग्छ, दशैंको बिदा पनि सही उपयोग हुन्छ | ठाउँमा-ठाउँमा मनाइने दशैं मैले देखेको/भोगेको दशैं भन्दा पृथक छ कि? देश भ्रमण गरी अरुको दशैं देखेर फेरी दशैं सँग माया बस्छ कि? त्यो सोच्न योग्य विषय हो |
(यो लेख, fiction होइन.. न त, म आफैंले भोगेको सत्य कहानी हो.. तर यो कसैको कहानी हो, सत्य कहानी.. तपाईंसँग मिल्न गएमा कृपया आफ्नो त्रुटी सच्याउन अनुरोध गर्दछु | धन्यवाद )
(दशैं प्रतिको दृष्टिकोण यो मेरो आफ्नो उमेरवर्गका साथीहरुसँग बढी मिल्न सक्छ, दशैं अरु उमेर वर्गका मानिसलाई भिन्न तरिकाले दशा लाग्न सक्ला/नसक्ला यो उहाँहरुको विचार हो |)
हामी सबैको दशैं सुभ रहोस्.. बडा दशैंको हार्दिक मंगलमय शुभकामना 
Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

मनको ज्वालामुखी

एकतमासले मुटु भारी भएको छ.. मुटुको बोझ आँखाले बिसाउन खोज्दै छ तर घांटीमा गाँठो परेको छ.. यो कस्तो सम्बन्ध? मुटु घांटी अनि नयनको कस्तो समझदारी? एकको स्वीकृति बिना चल्न नजान्ने? त्यो मुठीभरको मुटु को पिडा कम गर्न म बेसरी घांटी मा बल पुर्याउछु.. प्रयास विफल, अश्रुले आँखा भरिन्छन, तर बर्सन सक्दैन… ती बग्न नसकेका आँशुले अब भित्री मुटुमा दखल पुर्याउछ.. मुटु पोल्छ भत्भति.. अब भावन्न हुन्छ मलाई.. कता गएर, कसो गरेर हुन्छ  टाउको ठोकी शान्त हुन चाहन्छु म… तर सक्दिन… अगेनामा सेकाएका जस्तो  गालामा राफ पैदा हुन्छ… भित्र भित्रै डाहा हुन्छ… हात-गोडामा  लग-लगि काँप छुट्छन् | त्यहिँ ढलु ढलु लाग्छ.. बेहोशी भएको महसुस गर्छु.. कहाँ छु के  गर्दै छु सब बिर्सन्छु.. कति कातर अनि कति कम्जोर भएँ जस्तो लाग्छ.. के गरूँ, कसो गरूँ हुन्छ.. आफ्नै छातीमा मुड्की बजार्न मन लाग्छ… निशासिन्छु.. 
त्यतिकैमा आमाको आगमन हुन्छ अनि मेरो त्यो अवस्था देखि अत्ताल्लिदै अंगालो हाल्दै सोध्नु हुन्छ, ‘बाबु! के भयो तलाई? किन यस्तो काँपेको? के भयो?’
म आमालाई हेर्दै आफ्नो थुनिएको बोली फुटाउने प्रयास गर्छु… भन्न खोज्छु कि म ठीक छु..केहि भएको छैन.. तपाईं चिन्ता नलिनुस…
र जब मुख खोल्छु, ती आँखाको डिलमा ढिल्पिलिएर बसेका अश्रुधारा असारको भेलझैं बगी मेरो ओठमा आइ ठक्कर खाइ रहन्छन.. र म टासी रहन्छु आमाको अंगालोमा आफ्नो मनको भेल बगाउदै..एकदम निशब्द….      
..
Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail

UNDER THE BLUE MOON!

(Closed eyes, stretching lips, smiling face, picture of her in the mind, feels like I am on cloud nine……)

That’s what I experience whenever I lie down watching the twinkling stars under the blue moon. Cherishing the bygones, I start to smile and all of a sudden a sweet fragrance disturbs my nose which attracts me towards it. I start to follow it without caring anything around me. Dead silence (night) ruling over but that has no effect on me. On the meanwhile, cool winds caress my bare hands and neck which gives the sensation of her touch. I smile. 

I move around following the aroma. It feels like I am playing hide and seek with her and she has been deceiving me. I am so obsessed with her thoughts that I hear her whispering in my ears. I turn around.No one. I giggle. I bite my lips. I sit down. I can smell the odor closer to me. Subsequently, I feel like she is playing with my hair; messing it up. I feel seventh heaven. I close my eyes, I see her all around me. (I was following the scent and searching her outside but the fact was she was inside me..in my heart.) Though the physical bodies are miles apart, I can feel her inside. I can feel her beside me, with me(forever and ever). I just figured out that I was in love, true love indeed. I have found my ANGEL…..
Facebooktwitterredditpinterestlinkedinmail